On this post, my visit to Chatsworth House and the medieval walled city of York.
I feel like I’ve been a blogging machine since I got home from my trip. I’ve had two blogs a week, and it’s a lot for me.. and maybe you too. So sorry if you are tired of hearing about this trip! I have one more post about Edinburgh and what I packed and then II will be back to my regular bits and bobs.
UK Trip Part 3- Chatsworth and York
This is the fourth installment of the UK trip and this will be about visiting the Peak District and historic Chatsworth House and the incredible city of York..
Bakewell and Chatsworth House
When Max and I planned to drive through some of the country in the UK, I knew I wanted to get to Chatsworth. I had read so much about it, and of course being a Pride & Prejudice fan, made it even more romantic! ( Insert eye roll from Max here.) Jane Austen most likely based Pemberley on Chatsworth House .
They believe Jane wrote the novel while in Bakewell and had admired the house which she visited. I didn’t know this, but we stayed in Bakewell, which is four miles away from Chatsworth House and in the Derbyshire or the Peak District. It’s famous for its hill and walks and Max had planned or us to go on one, but the weather turned super rainy just as we got to this part of England.
My last post left off when we had just had lunch in the upper part off the Cotswolds, with my friend Rosie in her town of Stratford-Upon-Avon. We had about a two hour drive, which wasn’t bad, but Max’s GPS on his phone re-routed us a few times and at one point, it choose a hotel of the same name, The Rutland Arms, in Sheffield instead of Bakewell… It was getting dark and we realized at some point thankfully, we had overshot the turn by 35 minutes! We had dinner reservations at the hotel at 7 and just about made it there after a rather hairy drive through the twisting ‘peaks’ of the Peak District in the pouring rain and dark!
Our hotel was in the center of a quaint town, Bakewell. As it was pouring, I was glad to have dinner planned there. The Rutland Arms looks like it’s been there forever and actually the Bakewell Tart, which the town is famous for was accidentally made by a cook at the hotel in 1860. Our room looked like something out of a Jane Austen novel with a comfy four poster bed. After a dinner in the hotel dining room, we had some English comfort food, which was perfect on a rainy night, and I slept like a dream..
The front room off the hotel has a lively gathering area by the fire and groups of folks who were walking the Peak District were chatting. Dogs are allowed here and very welcome all over the countryside.. In fact there are brochures about pub crawls with your dog in this area!
The next morning after breakfast, we walked the town and checked out some local shops, then headed to Chatsworth where we had booked 10:30 tickets to the house. I recommend booking tickets ahead, more info here, so you know when you can enter and not wait around, as only so many can be in the house at one time.
The house was being decorated for Christmas as it is a popular place to go for the holidays. In the UK, the holiday season starts about November 1 and people are really good about planning days out to stately homes with friends. Chatsworth, like others, has shops and restaurants and even has a playground and welcomes dogs on the grounds. So it’s really a day out with the family sort of place. They were herding the sheep to another pasture as we walked up. The grounds are stunningly beautiful and the house is set in the perfect spot.
We did the audio guided tour of the gorgeous home. The public gets to see about 30 of the 100 rooms and the Cavendish family, the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, still live there. The home has been in their family since 1549, and they are the 16th generation to reside there!
The house was built by Bess of Hardwick, once the second most powerful and richest woman in Elizabethan England. She was married to a Sir William Cavendish and also built Hardwick Hall, which is supposed to be the best preserved example of Elizabethan culture and architecture ( I would like to see that on another trip).
The best part really is the main gallery with the stairs. It’s called the Painted Hall, and was built by the 1st Duke of Devonshire.
The state bedroom is also beautiful and the tapestries. The doors are massive and as Max is about 6’3 you can see he was dwarfed by them. The beds are short and an 8 year old also on the tour and I discussed if we could fit, and said we’d like to try!
The family has an extensive collection of art collected over centuries. I loved this doorstop!
The current Duke collects modern porcelains and many were on display like at this fireplace..
After about a 20 minute walk through the home, you are in the gift shop, which was previously an orangery..It was fun to see the house partly decorated and the gift shop is huge. There is also a garden shop and a few restaurants. We had a cozy lunch on a very wet day and shared a coronation chicken sandwich and an autumn soup. We also had a Bakewell Tart, because when in Rome… They are very good!
We didn’t get to check out the extensive gardens as it was pouring pretty hard. You can see the 300 year old cascading fountain and much else if you walk the estate.. We loved seeing the sheep and later we encountered one on the road.
That said, Max and I both felt something was missing with the Chatsworth visit and really it was the family story. We are both history buffs and in the audio guide the focus is really on the art and some of the architecture. This could have been more interesting with a guide who could tell you more stories of the house, and the people who built it like Bess of Hardwick, the other Dukes and Duchesses like Georgiana, and how the family came to set up the trust to keep it back in the 1950’s. I want more human interest stuff.
The house is absolutely stunning at the holidays and if you go to the website you can see about the markets and events and how they dressed it like an advent calendar! You can also read more on the home by the former Duchess’s book.
York
After our lunch we got back on the road and did our last leg in the car up to the historic city of York. York is beautifully preserved and full of history and the highlights are the medieval walls that ring the city and the largest cathedral in England, York Minster, which dates from the 7th century.
We dropped off our rental car in York and took a cab to my favorite stay of this trip, Gray’s Court Hotel. It’s a beautiful building and you enter at the back through cobblestone alleyway and wooden gates and into a courtyard with leafy trees, which in summer would be lovely to sit at.
Inside is a cozy sitting room with a cracking fireplace to sit by while they check you in.
They kindly helped us up the stairs with our luggage ( again pack light), to our room, facing the beautiful gardens and beyond are the city walls..
The hotel, literally in the shadow of York Minster, was once the accounting office for the church and is around 500 years old and just gorgeous.
It was a wet day, but we got out before dark to experience the cathedral bells, which are incredible and hear it play an extended song..( Another option we did not do, but would be perfect before dinner is Evensong at the cathedral.) The town is charming with many cobblestone streets, and quaint shops.
There are a lot of walking tours here to be had.. Many people also want to see the Shambles, which is one of the best preserved streets from the 14th century with shops hanging over which give it a crooked feel. Originally, it was a street of butcher shops and the overhangs of the buildings gave shade to the meat on the street. These lanes were a mess and unhygienic and where the word ‘shambles’ as we know it today springs from! I thought that was interesting.
Part of it has become very commercial as some of the Harry Potter films were based on this street and wizard shops have cropped up to make money off that. Many families and kids loving all that..
We took a long walk around the cathedral, and got back to our hotel where we had booked dinner at 7 at their highly rated Bow Room restaurant. We started with a drink in the cozy lounge. What I didn’t know was that the menu was a multi-course tasting menu! We were exhausted from the day and the drive, but it turned out to be one of the best nights we had on the trip.
The food was delicious and just the right amount. Highlight was the treacle bread and home made butter.. and I loved the desserts. Great service and Max did the wine pairing so we got to try some unique things. They ended the night with more of the delicious bread wrapped for us.. I would recommend this if you stay in York! The chef had had created dishes with nod to his northern upbringing. All spectacular.
The next morning we meant to see the cathedral, but it was sadly closed for a service. York Minster takes up many blocks! There was a cute new cafe that had the best view of it called The Rectory.
We walked along the city wall..You can see the moat that is still around the wall..
You enter and exit at historic gates… More snaps of pretty things..
We were lucky get into the much loved Betty’s Tea Room afterward. There is always a long queue to get into Betty’s which is famous for its rascal buns. Thanks to my friend Rosie, I knew all about this spot.
The line went fast and we miraculously got a window seat in ten minutes and had some fun people watching and especially enjoyed a school group do a scavenger hunt. ( By the way, October is not a slow time to visit the UK, as many schools have half term breaks and many families were off the week before and the week after we were there.)
Betty’s also has a shop and we bought a few things for the train ride. The sweet hotel also sent us off with waters and home baked cookies! ( This was not low carb travel!)
We took a cab to the train station and set off for Edinburgh a little after lunch. The York train station is fine, but if you buy first class tickets, you can wait in a warm lounge which also has snacks and beverages. The station is open air and pretty cold. The train ride to Edinburgh is 2 hours 45, depending on the stops. We did a LNR train with 2 stops.
We met this sweet lady coming back home to Edinburgh with her pup, Suki Sausage. What a good dog and she let me take a photo. So many dogs, especially in the countryside in the UK, where they are welcome everywhere and I loved it!
Next week.. our final stop..Edinburgh! If you missed the other find London here, and Oxford to the Cotswolds here, and Stratford-Upon-Avon here.
Other Stuff…
Earlier this week, did write about the coolest coats that are on my radar for this week’s Signature Style with Cindy if you missed it.
I also just got the black version of the trench I took on the trip and love it! I added it to the post, and took a photo in it.. This trench is such a nice one and is on sale even more now for the holiday..It’s $124 and an extra 30% off with code SOFESTIVE.
We are planning a small Thanksgiving with my sons and dad. Max and I are making less dishes and just a turkey breast. I haven’t even figured out my table yet! I will share when I do, but I’m sort of an impromptu tablescape person.. I’m just so excited to have everyone here and I hope we get a game night and a walk or two… and a viewing of Charlie Brown’s Thanksgiving. I just need to see Snoopy set the table, and maybe an old Meg Ryan rom com.
I am wishing you a happy Thanksgiving and holiday week. My heart is also going to all the families at this time in war regions. It’s been hard seeing so much suffering lately and so many missing or losing loved ones.
Thank you for stopping by,
Kim
Please pop by Elizabeth and Juliet’s blogs…
MAKE MINE A SPRITZER
PINECONES AND ACORNS
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I’ve so enjoyed your posts about your UK trip. My husband is from the northeast of England, his mother was from York, we’ve been to the Cotswolds, Stratford-Upon-Avon, Chatsworth and many other places you featured so I’ve reminisced along the way. I’ve never been to Scotland so I’ll enjoy your upcoming post as well. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!
Barb, I loved getting to see this part of England! I feel like there was much more to see.. I’m so glad we did it. Very cool his mo was from York. That is a special place. Thanks for following along!
Another great and informative UK post! York sounds very interesting. Happy Thanksgiving to you too.
Thanks so much Carolina! Wishing you the same. xo
Hi Kim, please NEVER think that your post are too much – especially the travel ones!! This series has been so great – when we go to the UK we usually stop at friends near Manchester and then take the west coast roads up to Scotland. I can see that York is definitely worth a stop, as are Bakewell and Chatsworth. Really, you have done such a great job, I think that Visit Britain should publish your blog posts!
Patricia you are the sweetest! I just loved sharing this trip. I just didn’t realize how long it would take to put it all together.. I would love to do the drive up the West Coast to Scotland too.. xo
Oh, it’s not that great – mostly motorway, very busy, but for us it’s the quickest way. However, if you ever do go that way, plan to stop at Tebay motorway services – it’s a lovely place to take a break, with food, a great farm shop and nice views.
Thank you Patricia! Saving that for future trips.
I never tire of your travel posts! Your trip looks amazing – must add to my bucket list. Will be buying that JCrew trench in black. How’d you find the sizing? Did you order petite?
Hi Laura, Aw thank you.. I did not order the petite even though I’m a little under 5’4, but I did get the 6, which is still roomy and I am usually an 8 and about 138 pounds. I hope that helps! You’ll love it.
I’m loving your posts on your trip to the UK Kim! Also loved your postings on coats. I’m still in the market for a nice ‘walking coat’ but haven’t tried any available options yet.
I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving with your family!
Thanks so much Sally! Hope you had a good one too.. PS love those unlined coats and they are on sale for Black Friday.
Kim, please keep writing your about your recent travel through England and Scotland. So well researched…I love the history and geography of the UK…and your photos are lovely! I actually thought the doorstop you loved was Max!…he was in front of a doorway…until I scrolled down and saw the lion 😀
Like you, I have the west of Scotland on my list… my favourite cousin lives on the Clyde , west of Glasgow, and I always visit when in Scotland. Here’s some inspiration…The Majestic Line has small ships ( 12 passengers) and offers tours of 3,6,and9 days off the West Coast. Most begin in Oban, so taking the train from Glasgow, north alongside Loch Lomond and west to the coast is an easy way to travel. The last rail portion to Oban is considered very beautiful. “Taste of the Hebrides” is a 3 night trip and one I am eyeing for the last part of my grand 75th in 2025. Your hotel choices will be researched for my next trip to Oxford and York… beautiful places with gorgeous interiors.
Happy Thanksgiving! …we are enjoying a meal on Thursday with American/Canadian friends nearby. We had our Thanksgiving in early October 🇨🇦when the leaves were in their glory. 🍁🍂
Sadly , all are raked and binned now in prep for a frosty winter.
Cath Ha! That’s funny. I have to be careful with the captions. I am cracking up and so was Max!
Also you are the best with all these great tips. I am hoping to go back to Scotland and want to do all this. Your trip will be amazing.
I adore the York Hotel !
Darn don’t you just love the pretty leaves? I hate when they get raked here because we don’t get hem for long!
Such a pleasure to read your travel blogs Kim.
I want to go!
Aren’t we loving the rain this weekend in California?!
Wishing you a Happy Thanksgiving
Janet thank you so much. I know so happy about the rain! Happy Thanksgiving.
Hi Kim, I love reading about your UK trip and seeing the great photos. We have enjoyed several visits to Chatsworth and also the town of Bakewell but have never been to York, which is on my list in the future.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. We must get together sometime soon!
Julia
Julia! So nice to hear from you. You need to get to York next time! It was magical. We have to get together soon. xo
I’m sad your travel posts will be coming to an end!! Love how you have taken us along….I’ve been to all the place you recently visited and enjoyed them all over agin with your descriptions and perspectives. You NEVER disappoint with your posts.
Thank you! Enjoy your holiday.
Maureen, thank you.. That is so kind of you. Wishing the same to you.
Another great blog Kim. I loved following you around England! It’s where my family hails from and still live. Last time I was there I visited Hardwick Hall. House full of glass! “Bess of Hardwick” the book is an interesting read if u find the time. Can’t wait to hear all about Edinburgh .. it’s been 40 years since I was last there!
You have taken some great pics and made some amazing memories.
I love these kind of blogs.
Xx
Sarah so cool you got to Hardwick! I really wish we had seen it. Thanks so much. I know you probably have more cool spots to go with your family from there. xo
Kim, your trip posts are such a dream and I hope they never end. I’m reading them over and over and really feeling the pull to plan a similar journey. There’s just nothing like the UK. Max can roll his eyes all he wants over Jane Austen … we should plan a girls only Jane Austen excursion. All beautiful country towns and houses and lots of stops for tea and scones. Gray’s Court hotel looks enchanting, and the tables scattered about the gardens. Swoon. I can see why it was your favorite. And I appreciate your comments about the Chatsworth House audio tour … I feel the same. Give me more info on the history of the family … that’s the riveting stuff that really draws us in. Suki Sausage is the cutest dog ever. And is that a classic Longchamp bag her mom’s using?! It’s awesome that dogs are so front and center and welcome around England. Wish I could take mine along … not sure they’d exhibit proper British manners. Once again, I look forward to your next installment. Kudos to you for culling through what must be hundreds of amazing photos … I feel like I’m on the journey with you and I don’t want it to end. xo
You are so nice.. We need a Jane Austen girl’s trip. Yes isn’t Suki the cutest and her mom was too. Lots of those Longchamp bags all over in UK. xo
Kim,
I am going to miss your weekly posts about your recent trip. I have been to so many of these places it is fun to see them again.
I LOVE LOVE York, it is such a beautiful, walkable town. As for Chatsworth, I have not been there but it is on my list. It is too bad that it was raining and you missed the gardens, they are supposed to be amazing. Bakewell tarts are delicious! And easy to make so you can recreate it at home. Can you even imagine the $$$ and the upkeep on these houses? No wonder so many host weddings, open restaurants, and pop-ups and of course tours.
Don’t you love taking the train? It is such fun to look at the scenery, and people watch. I am looking forward to hearing your impression of Scotland. It is my favorite place that I have ever visited.
Your black trench looks great! A versatile piece to add to your wardrobe.
Enjoy your paired down Thanksgiving, it’s the best. Less is definitely better, less work, less leftover and more time with the people you love.
We are hosting 10 and are looking forward to it, all family and thankfully they all like to cook so they are sharing the load.
Have w wonderful weekend Kim!
xo
Elizabeth, I know you would love Chatsworth.. so your kind of place. NO it must cost a small fortune. Adore the train and would go all train off we could. Hope your Thanksgiving was great too. xx
Hi Kim,
I was just about ready to send you a response to your post and my iPhone for whatever reason seems to be extremely temperamental. I had the same issues reading your travel post. It flips me out then have to start from the beginning. Enough of my venting. It just gets frustrating. I should not be a winey baby in light of the war going on. Yes, “we live in comfort and ease.”
I love, love, loved reading your post and seeing all the photos as well. I’m so impressed with all you accomplished in such a short period of time. What great memories you shared together and thank you for sharing everything with us.
Hugs❣️
Katherine don’t worry …I have issues leaving comments on blogs too and it can be maddening!!
You are very sweet. Thank you we did get to a lot. So glad we did it, and I have travel anxiety! xo
Another super post Kim. I love Betty’s tea room and I love York, although I haven’t been for a few years. If you like historical fiction you might enjoy The Seeker series of books by SG Maclean, a lot of the story is set in an and around York, Puritan vs Royalists with the main character ending up in New England! Looking forward to your Scotland post!
Lesley thank you so much! I am saving that book series. It sounds good! xo
Hi Kim … I’m really enjoying your trip related blog posts, especially how you write them. You include lots of extra interesting information. For instance I know a little about Bess of Hardwick and Hardwick Hall but I didn’t realise about her connection to Chatsworth. Like you and Max I love to read or hear about the families who lived in places over the years and their lives , as much if not more than the actual buildings, art works etc.
I can’t believe that I haven’t visited Chatsworth but it’s definitely on my list now. We’ve been talking about a family holiday in the Peak District… so maybe next year!
I remember walking into the courtyard and lobby area of your hotel in York and we thought it would be a lovely place to stay … so glad to hear more about it and how good the restaurant is too!
I love your check dress, black sweater and boots outfit … so versatile!
Please don’t worry that your posts are too long … I often read them twice lol You write so well and they’re always so interesting, whatever the topic.
I hope you’re having a good pre Thanksgiving weekend!
Rosie xxx
Rosie Doesn’t Bess’s story seem so interesting? I want to know more and see that house. Oh I bet you all would have so much fun in the Peak area with all the walks too. Aw you are so sweet. xo
Kim, You keep writing all you want about the UK. I am in love with that place and people. You help bring it to life with photos and tips. Glad you had such a good trip! xo-holly
Thank you Holly! So nice of you. xo
Another interesting travel post. You really planned a great itinerary. The Cotswolds is where I want to visit next. Nice photos and a wonderful time you and your husband had—lovely English hotels, food and shopping, etc.!
Happy Thanksgiving.
Thank you so much Sheila. You will love it. Cotswolds is so beautiful. Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving week, Kim! I have absolutely loved all your UK posts, and I will archive for future trips. Lots of good info and great photos. Your small Thanksgiving dinner will be wonderful. Enjoy all the moments with your sweet family. 🍁🦃
Hi Karen! Aw thanks so much! xo
Hi Kim,
You have a wonderful, informative blog and I love your travel posts and details on how / what you do on trips! Long ago, in 2007, we were in Europe (Paris, UK, Italy-Switzerland) for my husband’s sabbatical (CS prof) from early spring to mid-summer. Looking back, it was an amazing year of travel, though I didn’t realize how much we’d do at the time: we even adopted our Italian rescue pup!). We were in York visiting a prof friend (work for hubs) for 5 days, and I went to Betty’s 4 out of 5 days for soup + scones for lunch! It was fun to explore old York’s winding streets; I still have a fabulous silk chiffon skirt from a wonderful store there. Walked the walls of the city — fun. AND we visited Derbyshire and Chatsworth with our prof friend (photo of the waterfall looking down onto the estate and the resident chickens!). Such wonderful memories. We had hoped to do almost the same itinerary as yours in May, but hubs is adamant about not driving at all, and that stopped me! Your solution of driving in very limited areas provides a glimmer of hope for taking this trip in our nearish future — thanks!
p.s. I’m a native of Palo Alto, so I do enjoy keeping tabs on my home state and the Bay Area, too!
Hi Joan! Thank you so much.
Wow what a wonderful sabbatical! It sounds like a dream trip. How wonderful you got to York ( I feel like not enough people have), and Chatworth. I would have gone to Betty’s every day I could too! Isn’t that great you have your skirt from there? I love when you find something you love from travels and you keep remembering the adventure when you use it.
I hope you guys get tomplan to go back. I would definitely look into the train/drive less option. I have even heard of a few who took a tour with transportation in a nice bus between the Cotswolds towns.
I love Palo Alto! So nice to get your comment!